> By Michelle Woo   > Photographs by Eric Sueyoshi

 

 

The roar of the crowd echoes through a ballroom on the Queen Mary ocean liner in Long Beach, Calif. Moments before the contest, the competitors prepare themselves, loosening their jaws and gazing at their prey.

Today, it’s warm and greasy chili fries, sprinkled with globs of shredded cheese.

Bon appétit.

The timer begins and the contenders dive in. It’s on. Ten minutes of all-you-can-eat glory. Aligned behind an extended table on a platform, these self-proclaimed “gurgitators” shovel forkfuls of smothered fries into their mouths as fast as humanly possible, paying no attention to the tiny chunks of meat that have landed on their bulging cheeks. Whisking across the stage, the announcer gives the play-by-play. More than 200 spectators watch in shock, in amusement, in disgust.

Going for the tackle are mostly former frat-boy types, those who’d likely have the pizza delivery number on speed dial. Among the 12 competitors, there’s former jalapeno-eating champion Jed Donahue, big and burly “Humble Bob” Shoudt, and Timothy “Eater X” Janus, who sports a painted-on WWF-style mask.

And then there is Sonya Thomas. A slip of a woman at about 105 pounds, she hardly looks like she could finish more than a chopped salad, let alone out-scarf men three or four times her weight. Yet the dainty devourer has been doing just that for the past four years, currently ranked as the No. 4 eater in the world. Chili cheese fries? No problem. Last year, she set the world record in that category, packing down 8 pounds and 2 ounces of the artery-clogging snack.

Competitive eating (eating as much as possible within the given time limits) has gained worldwide popularity, propelled by its most recognized event, Nathan’s Famous July Fourth International Hot Dog Eating Contest in Coney Island, N.Y. Much more than a county fair spectacle, it is a sport, participants declare, and one that should be treated as such.

Exactly two minutes into the competition, Thomas, a 39-year-old Korean immigrant, may very well be on her way to a repeat win. Wearing a T-shirt, a Wienerschnitzel apron, loose-fitting jeans and baseball cap embroidered with her competition alias “Black Widow” (a moniker she gave herself since female black widow spiders will sometimes kill and eat a male after mating), Thomas attacks her first plate of fries with ease.

“Sonya Thomas is on her second plate,” the announcer declares. “This is physical poetry, ladies and gentlemen.”

The audience cheers.

“Oh my gosh, she’s so cute,” one woman says.

“I love you, Sonya!” another fan screams.

With her head down and eyes focused, Thomas keeps on chomping.

 

First Bites

Thomas was born and raised in Gunsan, Korea. Her dad was a carpenter; her mom was a housekeeper. Money was always tight. As a child with an active metabolism, there never seemed to be enough food.