It’s mid-morning at the Koreatown McDonald’s on busy Western Avenue just north of Seventh Street. Outside, a dozen older Korean men sit under a large red canopy at small Formica tables. They clutch coffee cups, read Korean newspapers, chat and play Korean chess, called janggi.
The area is around 1,000 square feet and less than inviting. Nails stick up from the roof to prevent vandals and a sign on the wall reads: “Private property. No trespassing, loitering, drinking. Violators will be arrested and prosecuted.” Minor landscaping and a lone palm tree soften the nearby asphalt parking lot, but not much.
Young men and women of various ethnicities rush in and out of the fast food restaurant, located next to a hotel. But the Korean seniors here on the patio are in no hurry. It’s a hot day, but the red canopy shades them as a cool breeze flaps the American, California and McDonald’s flags.
Many gather around two men embroiled in a close game. Gambling is kept to a minimum — at most $1 a game.
The group sports a variety of hats — baseball caps, straw hats, porkpie hats. One or two men sit alone nursing coffee, the rest are caught up in conversation.
One sits down next to me. “Hello, I’m Mr. Han,” he says. He wears a tidy shirt, sunglasses, and has a friendly, wrinkled face.
“I’m Bill.”
We shake hands. I tell him I’ve noticed the group and am interested in hanging out and observing. Exploring L.A.’s varied landscape is one of my hobbies, and I’ve been curious about this place ever since I heard about it from a Korean friend. It seemed like an unusual place for Korean seniors to gather daily, and I wanted to know more about its history and clientele.
Mr. Han says he’s a 73-year-old retired widower. He comes here regularly to drink coffee.
“Why here?” I ask.
“I like this place,” he says. “Mostly retired Korean men come here. The McDonald’s employees who work here are nice and don’t bother us. A few homeless also sit here, but don’t bother us either.”
He says some Korean men come from a long distance to hang out on this patio. One man buses in every day from La Crescenta — 25 miles away. The patio starts getting filled at 7 a.m., and many stay long into the afternoon.
Mr. Han says he’s a university engineering grad who served in Vietnam as a Korean Marine captain. Koreans, he says, did some of the toughest fighting in Vietnam, and a number of his men died. He’s been living in Los Angeles for 35 years. He likes it here, especially the weather. Once a mechanic at a Beverly Hills hotel, he now lives alone on his monthly social security check. I learn that some of these men rely on either social security or welfare.