They get no respect.

This, it seems, is the plight of Hyundai Motors. Even as they’ve climbed to fourth best-selling import in the United States — behind Toyota, Honda and Nissan — and won automotive accolades along the way, the memory of the company’s clunky Excel, which made its U.S. debut in the ’80s, is still vivid in the minds of consumers.

“There are still too many people who aren’t comfortable with the Hyundai brand,” said Robert Cosmai, president and CEO of Hyundai Motor America, the U.S. affiliate of the South Korean automaker. “That’s both a challenge and an opportunity.”

Introducing the redesigned 2006 Sonata.

Previous versions of this car have been recognized by J.D. Power and Associates for having the highest initial quality in the Entry Midsize category, and was rated the “Most Appealing Entry Midsize car” two years in a row. But this new edition is the car that Hyundai has staked out to be its “brand-altering” vehicle.

When I mentioned to friends that I was taking a trip to San Francisco in mid-April, along with another few dozen reporters from various media outlets, to test-drive the upgraded Sonata, all I heard was … crickets. There was no “Ooh, that sounds like fun,” or “How cool.” Just bemused looks, or even snickers. The thought of driving a Hyundai — even through the picturesque City by the Bay and its scenic surrounding environs, for free, no less — didn’t come close to eliciting a sense of excitement.

But I was excited. Getting behind the wheel of an automobile not my own is a thrill for me, especially rentals … something about seeing how fast they can take a turn or flooring the gas pedal without having to worry about the long-term consequences. So the prospect of having free reign to push a new car? Neat!

As soon as I slipped into a new Sonata with my partner Kyoung-Pil, who would be my navigator, and merged into the San Francisco traffic, visions of doing a “Steve McQueen” à la “Bullitt” flashed through my mind. But I quickly had a head-on with reality. Still, I pushed hard on the accelerator, and the V6 engine had plenty of zip to get up the city’s steep hills, albeit without launching into the air.

Following our pre-planned route, I drove across the Golden Gate Bridge into Marin County, where I was able to sample the car’s handling abilities on Marin’s far-flung, winding highways. The handling felt agile, especially when the panoramic grandeur of Tomales Bay kept my attention too long and I almost missed a curve. But with a quick jab of the steering wheel, the car responded quickly and I was right back in control, maneuvering the car through the twisty roads. Passing the sub-65-miles-per-hour cars on the two-lane highways was also a breeze with the Sonata’s acceleration capabilities.